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Dont u need rebars? Just curious

I just poured a brand new concrete pool deck. It stains with leaf tannins. Does this paint clean up easy? I have to power wash everything to try and get the stains out. They also applied a sealer after 30 days. Please advise product name and color . Great job

Hard work! It’s not a problem holding the truck there while you screed?

We're in wi we're at 14 sq ft with demo form wire mesh grading do you think we are too low in la Crosse wi

What are your thoughts on adding extra Portland mix to make a smoother finish?

Can anyone tell me more about the "slurry" ? I only seen and heard about it once bc my job only does concrete a couple times a year. Thanks

Mike, when you order with the water reducer, do you order it with a specific slump? If it comes too tight can you add water to it?

What do you do to get the blades going. I've only ran stone. It's Got the clutch you engage and disengage

The batch man is not putting enough head water when batching. When putting reducer in he was taking water from the head instead of the end

Why pour from the outside edge in, instead of the hillside wall to outside edge?

What is the secret to keeping it straight?

Hi, you have it down! How much does the power skreed weigh?

You 2 men definitely make it look easy. Most guys would have that concrete a mess.

Hey Mike, Greg from north Georgia years ago I had a buddy make me a steel ladder we could hook over the top of the wall

Great job! 38 years that’s a long time. June I’m licensed 35 years. You guys are smart, water reducer and vibrating screed. It takes years to be able to do that just two guys.

This video again? wtf

What's the story with the driver , think it's time to pack it in yet?

As an Irishman I think yiz do good fuckin work,fair fuckin play to ye good oul grafters.

Great job guys!

Looks good Mike & Darin … Darin definitely worked harder , He needs a raise for todays work efforts

Can you not just lay block paving that don't crack once done

I am not a specialist in making concrete floors, so my comments may be wrong. In my opinion, the people who poured the concrete did their job well, but I don't think that the others responsible for the effect of this work did it well. As it was noticed, the concrete contained more water than it should, which means the quality of the concrete is poorer. There is a reinforcing wire grid placed on the floor insulation and as you can see, it touches the insulation (there is no distance between them). In this case, the wire reinforcement will only be glued to the lower side of the concrete, and it should be "embedded" in the concrete at a certain height, therefore "spacers" should be placed under the wire grid so that the concrete flows under the reinforcement. In this version, this reinforcement is worthless and only increases the construction cost (time of laying the reinforcement and its purchase cost). In my opinion, the person laying the wire reinforcement should put spacers in the appropriate amount. Currently, there are concretes with added glass fibers and in such cases metal reinforcement is apparently unnecessary. There should be a small barrier between the floor and the walls (e.g. 2 thicknesses of felt) to prevent the concrete from cracking uncontrollably (concrete shrinks and cracks naturally, although the newest types of concrete, maybe, but I'm not sure, don't have this problem). After the concrete has dried (when it is sufficiently hard), the concrete is cut (about 1/3 of its depth) with a saw so that the cracks are in these cuts. Of course, these cuts are later filled with appropriate material. The distance between these cuts should be 4.5 m to 6 m (14 to 20 feet apart). The concrete foundations we see in the video should also have space for cracks (if we want to have control over their sealing), but that's a different topic. All objects emerging from concrete (pipes, manholes...) should be separated from the concrete with plastic foil so that they do not stick to the concrete. After the concrete dries, these gaps are glued using e.g. silicone to seal these places and prevent the passage of gases from the ground to the interior of the house (e.g. radon).

i never ever used one of these and i pour concrete. I stamp a lot of shiii to.....

Darrin worked harder for sure!!😂

Hey Mike , this one has been posted before ,but never gets old, great work

Why not just show the last steps?

I dont think it looks thst loose tbh

Question from us who would do it themselves or also with one other person. Do most of the drivers give you that much time or is 30 minutes what they should be hanging around to do?

i need to do this over an oil-painted slab. 1”-1.5” inch concrete. can i use this same mix?

Nice work.

She flows like buttermilk, Mike !! LOL

Water reducer, gas and electric screeds, I’m jealous!! We worked with 4-5” slumps and when I sometimes had to help with the screed, my Back! Ohhh my back. 😂 God bless. You guys got a great system. I see guys just doin what’s next without a lot of verbalizing. COOL‼️

Id say they suck equally haha. Darins a beast

I love your videos man. Keep it up! Im going to do the side of my garage this summer and your videos are a huge help

Did you post this before? I swear iv watched that pour already

I had Mortex Kool Deck invented in 1962 can't get anything cooler to walk on bear foot., I'm in AZ where it's hotter then hell in the summer. I had been talked into acrylic lace that stuff was like walking on hot coals in the summer. After about 10 years it peeled up in sheets that Acrylic lace.

"Just a Thought" I would imagine that the lesson to be learned here is to start rolling the pattern on the side where the first concrete was poured, thereby rolling with the drying pattern, not against it. If rolled this way, it's doubtful the weights would have been necessary, and the impressed patterns would be more consistent throughout the slab. YOUR THOUGHTS? "Live, Love, Learn" . . .

What is the thickness of the slab??

Gj fellas.

I want to do this in my garage but I have exposed wood framing around the perimeter instead of block like in this video. How would I go about raising the floor up 4 inches without tearing down the walls first

Sounds like your the hack. Defend yourself with facts not name calling its not the 3rd grade but hey to each his own

Love the excavator in the backround. Kind of let me know the amount of time put into it.

👍

Монолитом без расширительных швов?

Great way to ruin a fresh slab.

Lmfao, one of the dumbest videos I've seen in a very long time 😂😂😂

Sorry you just clarified it in the video. Water reducer

What slump is that? Plastisizer?

I've always been curious about these kind of foundations. Do they heave in cold climates?

You say "that could be the finished floor". Really?! It can be the finished floor? I have exactly this scenario. A center drain in the basement was relocated during a complete pipe replacement. The floor still has that dip in the center and lots of rough spots, irregularities and seams from different concrete pours. It's over a hundred years old, had tiles and carpet etc, before. I need to level the floor as well as make it one homogenous surface. This drainpipe excavation was an unplanned necessity and I don't have the budget to lay a floor. So this product is a self leveler and actually provides a durable , smooth finished surface? And It's ok if we paint or epoxy afterwards?